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General Technical Help / Re: Removing 1955 Cadillac engine???
« Last post by Bruce Reynolds on January 18, 2021, 08:04:04 PM »But, what does it say about only removing the transmission?
Bruce.
Bruce.
Cadillac LaSalle Clubs of Australia
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General Technical Help / Re: Removing 1955 Cadillac engine???
« Last post by Ratcad on January 18, 2021, 06:58:28 PM »The manual only talks about removing them both together to remove the engine.... it does have a section about removing just the transmission on a hoist...., I had always planned to remove both to make it easier to not have fluid leaks at the fluid drive... but I was just hoping maybe someone has tried the other way..👍🏻
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General Technical Help / Re: Removing 1955 Cadillac engine???
« Last post by Bruce Reynolds on January 18, 2021, 10:54:31 AM »Whatever is said for the '54, wil most probably be the same for the '55, as they only put out Supplements where there are minor changes to a new model.
Does the '54 Shop Manual show that the trans can be removed without pulling the engine as well?
The main problem I see is that there needs to be sufficient room to move either forward or backwards to give access to those bolts that need undoing to allow the separation from the crankshaft, and moving the engine forwards could be baulked by the engine mounts, front crossmember etc, as the engine cannot be lifted high enough to clear these obstacles.
As a package, when the complete unit is out, then there is a lot of room to access everything.
I know that the Shop Manual for 1972 says to use a vehicle hoist when removing the engine from an Eldorado, but I managed to remove mine using a jack to access anything underneath, and I have removed both the Engine and Trans as a unit, and also removed just the engine. But, I would remove both the Engine and Trans together every time as it is simply easier. Especially when putting them together in the car is VERY awkward.
Bruce.
Does the '54 Shop Manual show that the trans can be removed without pulling the engine as well?
The main problem I see is that there needs to be sufficient room to move either forward or backwards to give access to those bolts that need undoing to allow the separation from the crankshaft, and moving the engine forwards could be baulked by the engine mounts, front crossmember etc, as the engine cannot be lifted high enough to clear these obstacles.
As a package, when the complete unit is out, then there is a lot of room to access everything.
I know that the Shop Manual for 1972 says to use a vehicle hoist when removing the engine from an Eldorado, but I managed to remove mine using a jack to access anything underneath, and I have removed both the Engine and Trans as a unit, and also removed just the engine. But, I would remove both the Engine and Trans together every time as it is simply easier. Especially when putting them together in the car is VERY awkward.
Bruce.
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General Technical Help / Re: Removing 1955 Cadillac engine???
« Last post by Ratcad on January 17, 2021, 10:12:31 PM »Yes Bruce, I have a manual.... technically Cadillac didn’t produce a “1955” workshop manual... they used the 1954 with a supplement...(that part I don’t have).... the 1954 workshop manual only talks about removing both at the same time... I’m assuming as the 1954 331 has the “early” extended bell housing cast into the block... but the 55 is the first engine in the modern format... hence, I was curious if anyone has tried to seperate in the car... more interested about re-installing.. lining up the crankshaft bearing pin and the 36 bolts that bolt the fluid drive together... and having a gasket or sealant at the same time...???? A lot going on compared to a modern engine where all you have to do is line up a spline.....???
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General Technical Help / Re: Removing 1955 Cadillac engine???
« Last post by Bruce Reynolds on January 17, 2021, 08:47:25 PM »G'day Adam,
Removing the engine on its' own should be easy if you follow the Shop Manual. You do have a Shop Manual?
You will have to separate the Fluid Drive, which might mean that you have to drop the Tans, but read the Manual.
Bruce.
Removing the engine on its' own should be easy if you follow the Shop Manual. You do have a Shop Manual?
You will have to separate the Fluid Drive, which might mean that you have to drop the Tans, but read the Manual.
Bruce.
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General Technical Help / Removing 1955 Cadillac engine???
« Last post by Ratcad on January 17, 2021, 07:44:30 PM »Hi all, I need to remove my 1955 331 from my almost completed project.... I remember putting the trans and engine together when the body was off which was very easy... so I’m wondering has anyone plucked a 1955 331 and left the transmission in position??... as you might know, it’s a very different to a modern engine/trans assembly..., it would be nice to leave the tranny/tail shaft in position, for a couple reasons... they are damn heavy..., and less chance of scratching the engine bay when I’m just removing the engine....??? Cheers.. Adam
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General Technical Help / Re: 1961 Cadillac starter motor
« Last post by CAD161 on January 11, 2021, 12:07:54 PM »Hey Bruce,
thanks again I do have a shop manual . I will pull it out and have a look. Thanks for the offer to give you a call I’ll see how I go and will let you know.
Chris
thanks again I do have a shop manual . I will pull it out and have a look. Thanks for the offer to give you a call I’ll see how I go and will let you know.
Chris
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General Technical Help / Re: 1961 Cadillac starter motor
« Last post by Bruce Reynolds on January 10, 2021, 09:40:13 PM »Chris,
These things aren't rocket science, and are easy to pull to pieces, and rebuild, if there isn't any broken wires in the Armature or Field Coils.
The Commutator could need rubbing with a piece of Emery paper to clean it, the Brushes could need replacing, the Bushes could need replacing (No bearings in these Starters).
Plus, the Solenoid could just need the contacts cleaning or turning, and the Bendix could need replacing, if it is worn out in the roller clutch.
They are like all Basic GM Starter Motors, and the Cadillac uses the one with the heavier duty field coils.
You do have a Shop Manual? If you want to give me a ring, my number is in the Membership Directory.
Bruce.
These things aren't rocket science, and are easy to pull to pieces, and rebuild, if there isn't any broken wires in the Armature or Field Coils.
The Commutator could need rubbing with a piece of Emery paper to clean it, the Brushes could need replacing, the Bushes could need replacing (No bearings in these Starters).
Plus, the Solenoid could just need the contacts cleaning or turning, and the Bendix could need replacing, if it is worn out in the roller clutch.
They are like all Basic GM Starter Motors, and the Cadillac uses the one with the heavier duty field coils.
You do have a Shop Manual? If you want to give me a ring, my number is in the Membership Directory.
Bruce.
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General Technical Help / Re: 1961 Cadillac starter motor
« Last post by CAD161 on January 10, 2021, 09:18:02 PM »Hey Bruce, thanks for the info. Not 100 percent sure what’s wrong I feel it has been going for a while and now is just gone. It is a after market part not sure if they are worth rebuilding or if it’s just better to look for a rebuilt genuine part.
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General Technical Help / Re: 1961 Cadillac starter motor
« Last post by Bruce Reynolds on January 09, 2021, 09:37:27 PM »What is wrong with yours?
If yours is burnt out, and you have a good snout, then you can use most any guts from another Starter to replace the burnt-out or damaged parts.
What you have is the same as a '61 and '62 Starter, and the earlier parts, and probably later parts will interchange, except for the actual mounting casting piece.
This will give you a wider choice and availability.
The reason the '59 and '60 Starters won't bolt straight in is that the bellhousings for '61 and '62 were slightly relocated because of a raising of the Sump height, to allow the engine to be placed lower in the chassis.
Bruce.
If yours is burnt out, and you have a good snout, then you can use most any guts from another Starter to replace the burnt-out or damaged parts.
What you have is the same as a '61 and '62 Starter, and the earlier parts, and probably later parts will interchange, except for the actual mounting casting piece.
This will give you a wider choice and availability.
The reason the '59 and '60 Starters won't bolt straight in is that the bellhousings for '61 and '62 were slightly relocated because of a raising of the Sump height, to allow the engine to be placed lower in the chassis.
Bruce.