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G'day John,

Thankfully, I have never had to replace a heater core before, and hopefully, I never have to.

One thing I have found is that whatever the Shop Manual describes, that is the best way to go.

The service times are dictated by the shop manual and in a warranty situation, there is designated time allowances for tasks, and the dealer cannot charge the company any more than what is allowed, so therefore these Manuals have to be right.

Funny thing is that pulling something to pieces always takes a shorter time than putting back together, properly that is.

Bruce. :devil:
After some advice please:
The heater core started dripping coolant, can't have that so removed the 26 bolts surrounding the top of the A/C box in the engine bay, and with much difficulty removed the top of the box, then the heater core. Job half done! Cleaned all the rubbish and old coolant residue in there, and was looking forward to a better heater. Incidentally, the blower motor was quite stiff, drawing heaps of current, but after a bit of lubrication is back to 'normal'.

I have had the core replaced, and am working on putting it all back together. I did a trial replacement of the A/C box, and couldn't get it to fit back in - there is significant interference from the hood/bonnet at the top, and edge of the engine bay - I stopped after 3 attempts. Putting the new parts back in means a bit more finesse than when taking it out, because all the old gaskets/seals need to be delicately kept in place. So I am seriously considering lifting the hood about 30cm to get it back in.

Has anybody done this before?

I have the 1979 Manual - which is pretty specific - but it does not mention removing the hood.
Final update Aug 20:
Bought a new non-ESS distributor on Bay-of-E's for US$100, removed all ESS components on my engine, bypassed the TVC valve to run the vacuum advance properly, and now works much better than a new one. Keeping an eye on fuel consumption to see if it has improved - I think so. Ended up with 14 degrees vacuum advance, and 18 degrees initial. Also replaced the plugs and plug leads, and in doing so found #7 (back left of engine - hardest to get to) finger tight - might have caused strange recent running characteristics.

Current problem is the heater core. See separate post.
Cadillac Events / Re: Cadillac LaSalle Club of Australia 50th Anniversary
« Last post by Bruce Reynolds on August 14, 2020, 09:14:12 AM »
Not wanting to be pessimistic, but do we think the borders will be open by then?

Bruce. :devil:
Parts For Sale or Wanted / 1960 sedan de ville
« Last post by Alex on July 23, 2020, 12:33:05 PM »
Hi all,

I've recently been backed into and am chasing a drivers side rear door and rear skirt for a 60 sdv 6 window. Any help or leads appreciated, even if someone can advise me of contacts for any containers being shipped from the states.

Cadillac Chat Room / 1981 Seville Hubcaps or Spoked wheels
« Last post by Kolcaren on June 11, 2020, 06:18:56 PM »
Hi, I'm after a good (or OEM) set of spoke-type hubcaps for a 1981 Seville but I'm having trouble finding a supplier who can help. Anyone got any leads on where I can find some? Cheers Col
There is no need to run the engine on expensive petrol.

As these engines, that is engines built from 1971, were designed to run on Unleaded patrol, and as the compression ratios are low, it is totally safe to use 91, which is what I use in my own '72, which has a number of mods.

These engines have hardened valve seats from new, and the high-nickle content in the castings makes them really strong.

Bruce. :devil:
Update 3 Jun 20:
The 1979 is the only 425 that had an ESS - no suprises that parts are unavailable. The electronic module in the dissy depends on the ESS. So either a new ESS, or a new dissy.
So I have bitten the bullet, and bought a new HEI dissy which includes coil and covers, new leads, and waiting for USA delivery.
It means I will have to have the new dissy re-curved, but thats OK. The 1979 manual has all the details of dissy curves in use, and I will put a 'proper' one in place and run the engine on 95 octane.

Let you know how it goes.
Hi Guys:
Spotted yellow goop dripping from the LHS engine bay after a longish run: turned out to be the Electronic Spark Select module, which drives the spark advance in the HEI distributor. Its a black plastic container attached to the LHS front frame with 3 screws, 4-pin canon plugs, contains a complex PCB all covered in this yellow goop - apparently to 'seal' it. The PCB looks inaccessible.
Car still runs, seemingly as 'good' as ever - but that level of heat means something is about to fail. So not a driver until I fix it.
OS forums seem to indicate this melted module is common enough, but not a lot of spares about.

Anyone got an idea if it can be repaired? Or a suggestion as to where spare parts can be obtained?
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